Lancome

I knew absolutely nothing about Kypre, a 1935 Lancome perfume, when I scored a sealed(!) old bottle of the extrait de parfum in an online auction. The name, of course, was hinting big time that this is a chypre, but that was about that, other than the very little info I gathered here and there. The authoring nose of Kypre was Lancome founder Armand Petitjean (1884-1969) who released it the year he started the company along with four other fragrances. So it was a thrilling moment when the package arrived and I could crack it open and start playing.


My bottle is probably from the 1950s or so (based on its style and the little insert in the box listing Lancome's address as 29 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré). I was thrilled to discover the juice was very much alive, rich and sweet smelling. There's no question this is, indeed, a chypre, as I could smell enough of the structure right away. I don't know what else was in its top notes, but I was surprised to find out enough bergamot has survived and smelled like the remains of yesterday's Earl Grey tea- strong and a little bitter. The rest of the scent is a lot softer. There's a floral element that is probably a jasmine, non-indolic but a little heady even after all these years. Then comes the beautiful dry-down, a buttery leather, opulent and warm, and the oakmoss which is all velvet.

I never smelled the original Lancome Cuir, the more famous leather perfume Petitjean had created (originally named Revolte and released in 1936), only the reissue (which I love love love). The latter is a floral-leather, a bit crisp and somewhat related to Chanel Cuir de Russie (at least in its extrait version from the early 2000s. Who can keep track with all the changes and reformulations happening around us?), so I'll have to assume the style was somewhat similar. Kypre, while definitely leathery, smells like it belongs to the school of Mitsouko, though the dry-down is very pulled-together and a lot less dramatic. The part that makes me think of Mitsouko every time I wear Kypre is a certain boozy fruitiness when the heart morphs into the base of the perfume. Maybe fruitiness is the wrong word. It feels like the softest pair of exquisite boots in a dark cognac color.

The late dry-down is a muted soapy oakmoss that would easily appeal to a modern man just as much as to a woman. That is, if said man is the kind who trolls the net searching for long forgotten perfumes.

Vintage 1941 Kypre by Lancome perfume ad from hprints.com
Photo of Armand Petitjean from somewhere on the web (unfortunately I lost the link)
Photos of my bottle by me with the help of Lizzy.

I used to hate Tresor with the power of one thousand suns. It was the chemical peach bomb with a side of fake rose that did me in every time. I'd still prefer not to be stuck in an elevator with a person wearing this Lancome perfume, but I (sort of) get it now, and if I had to choose between Tresor and Angel, this Sophia Grojsman creation wins.

The story here is about peach and rose, both are ultra sweet and very powdery. There's also some violet, which is the finishing touch that makes Tresor so very femme it's almost a cartoon version of the idea. Sort of Jessica Rabbit in perfume form, just without the irony. But Tresor is also pretty in its own very loud way. I've come across a woman or two who pulled it off beautifully, radiating the softness and warmth promised in the ads and in Isabella Rossellini's face. On them, the harsh synthetic notes disappear, leaving them with all that is good in a rich fruity floral.



A 20 year old cousin who recently played with my perfume collection saw the old(ish) mini of Tresor EDP I keep around for reference and commented that it was her grandmother's signature scent. She was surprised when I told her Lancome launched this version in 1990 (the original 1950s Tresor was discontinued long before that). When it first came out, Tresor was my sister's favorite. She was in high school and used it with abandon (at one point she also had the lotion and used to layer them). The scent filled the air of her bedroom and wafted in the hallway for a couple of years. It was a slight improvement from the daily fumigation of LouLou that preceded Tresor as her favorite, but not by much.

It's funny how smelling it now is actually pleasant exactly because it reminds me of my sister in her junior year. She's going to be here next week and I'll have her re-sniff it for fun. We'll see what she's going to think now, twenty years later.

Tresor ($48.50, 1 oz)  is available everywhere under the sun- from Lancome counters to the usual websites. The formula was probably tweaked at some point but as far as I can tell (without skin testing) the changes weren't very significant and Tresor is still as recognizable and tenacious as ever.



Isabella Rossellini in the 1990s Lancome ad.
Fashion photograph by Karen Radkai for Harper's Bazaar, February 1950 from myvintagevogue.com

Have I mentioned that concealer is my friend? I especially like liquid ones, though I've come across a few new thicker formulas (stick and creams) that are quite excellent. Still, I find it easier to get optimal results and control when using a liquid concealer.

These two minis from Lancome came from various GWP events, so I didn't get to pick the shade. Still, both are quite versatile and I've been using them successfully. Maquicomplet gives full coverage and has a natural satin-like finish. It smooths over imperfections and doesn't cake or make the problem area look dried up. It covers all but the darkest freckles and blends easily into any foundation or tinted moisturizer I have underneath. The sponge applicator is not ideal- I'd rather use brushes or fingertips and the idea of double dipping, especially if one has blemishes is the germaphobe's worst nightmare.

Correcteur is a bit too yellow for my liking, but I find it actually neutralizes redness very well. My choice for this Lancome concealer would be Light Buff. I tested it in store and it seems like a better match, though with department store lighting you can never be completely sure.

Effacernes is a waterproof under-eye concealer. It's very light and almost melts into the skin, which is a lot more effective than trying to coat and paint that area. Effacernes is different than my favorite under-eye products in its matte finish- I usually go for the highlighter pens (Lancome has one of those which I haven't tried yet) and prefer their results, but there's something to be said for a waterproof natural coverage, especially in the hot and super humid weather we've been experiencing lately. This tube came in Clair II, which is visibly too drak and ashy for me. If I were to get it it would have to be in either Light Buff or Light Bisque.

Lancome Concealers  Effacernes and Maquicomplet ($28.50 each) are available from every department store under the sun.

Photos by me.

If I were Julia Roberts I'd be quite angry with Lancome for photoshopping the life out of my face. Seriously, what's the point in signing a mega-celebrity, paying her all this money for her pretty, real and popular face and then processing it to the point she's barely recognizable? By doing so Lancome lost all the warm fuzzies they've earned by recruiting the 43 year old Julia Roberts. What's the message they're sending us? And, by the way, even a 24 year old doesn't have a skin that looks made of plastic. If that's what Lancome is after they should have gotten Heidi Montag to be their face.

This tube of Lancome Color Fever Shine lipstick was a GWP (I can't remember if it came from a department store or Lancome.com), as you can see from the plain black packaging instead of the regular one*. I rarely have much luck with gift-with-purchase lipsticks because they tend to be either nude colors or very light, but Old Flame looked like it had some potential, so I kept it.

Color Fever Shine lipsticks (I have it in Simmering hiding in one of my purses)  are very comfortable and easy to wear because of their light weight. They are not sticky at all despite the almost oily texture (that's where the intense shine comes from). The glossy finish is pretty and not too shimmery, so it's daytime appropriate. There's an adequate moisture level so my lips don't get parched underneath, but its not as luxurious and pampering as the new lipsticks from some of the top brands, and there's no added benefit to the lips. The staying power is not impressive and I find myself leaving lip prints everywhere unless I'm filling the entire lip with a lip pencil underneath, which helps the lipstick hold.

Old Flame is a warm mauve. I suspect that like you see  in the swatch, if you have very pale lips you'll notice more of the brown base. My lips are much darker than my wrist and have a distinct purple tone that neutralizes the brown. The result is a very natural looking color, but because of the high shine it looks like I'm wearing an almost sheer gloss. I reach for it when I don't have the time or patience to make sure my lipstick doesn't clash with anything else I'm wearing and don't mind to reapply as often as needed.

Lancome Color Fever Shine Lipstick ($25) is available from every Lancome counter under the horrible department store lights as well as online. I mentioned above that this tube was a free GWP.

Photos by me.

I probably would have felt a lot more charitable towards Lancome's La Laque Fever lip gloss had it not been for the outrageously exaggerated description and promise:

From the moment of application, densely pixilated pearls combined with unique polymers give multi-dimensional shine that truly holds to your lips: no touch ups for 8 hours.

Seriously?

Lancome La Laque Fever is actually a great gloss and definitely longer lasting than a regular product. It completely coats the lips and clings to them nicely. The added benefit is protection from any drying environment, resulting in a healthy and full look. Le Laque Fever also offers a significant amount of shine, both in the shimmery and the cream formula. But the only way this gloss will last for eight hours with no touch ups is if you lock yourself in a bubble, avoid food, drinks, talking and preferably not move at all. Even a dedicated product tester like me can't do that, so I've been sticking to my unfortunate human lifestyle and have been leaving gloss prints on my water bottles, tea cups, spoons, the husband and any cat I happened to kiss while wearing it. Some pigment definitely remains on the lips, but the finish wears off after a while and I certainly need a touch up after eating or drinking.

 La Laque Fever is probably Lancome's alternative to Chanel Rouge Allure Lip Laque, Chanel's formula is clearly superior.

I love the soft and wide Lancome applicator. If I remember correctly, it was first introduced for the regular Color Fever gloss (the color On Fire is still one of my favorite lip glosses of all time), and allows for a quick and precise application. I wonder why other brands don't have anything similar.

The colors I chose are Dynamic (a red-based pink, cream finish), Berry Gold (warm shimmer in a raspberry red base) and Plum Wave (shimmery and cool-toned). As you can see, on the applicators it's really hard to tell which is which. If you buy more than one  La Laque Fever fever gloss, I highly recommend you keep them in their boxes, because the names on the bottom of the tube are in the tiniest print possible and very hard to read. As far as color pay off goes, if your lips are pale, you should be fine. On more pigmented lips the shades appear more shear. For the swatch photo I really piled it on- you can clearly see that the bottom part of Dynamic and Plum Wave swatches where I left it at one coat is much lighter. When I tried adding more coats some of the gloss ended up on my teeth until I blotted the inner part of the lips.

Bottom line: Far above average, but false promises make me cranky.

Lancome La Laque Fever ($26.50) is available from all the usual suspects, online and in store. If I remember correctly, I ordered mine from Lancome's website.

All photos are mine.

I'm still on a cream blush kick, so I decided to go back to Lancome, my first non-powder blush love. It's been a long time since they discontinued their mousse blush and replaced it with the Color Design cream formula, which is more dense, of course, but almost as easy to spread and blend.

Petticoat Pink is supposedly a sheer color, but it's quite intensely pigmented. I use only a dab is enough to get a healthy glow in a natural looking pink . You can apply as much or as little as suits you and blend it either with your finger or with a synthetic brush (I like the angled brush from Alison Raffaele). I like that Color Design is a no-shimmer formula and it doesn't shine. The staying power is definitely superior to the old mousse formula and is comparable to a traditional powder blush. I use it over my foundation and under a finishing powder, so it lasts all day long, though I do see some fading- it becomes less pink as the hours go by.

Lancome Color Design Cream Blush ($27) is available from every department store. I don't see Petticoat Pink on the company's website so it might be phased out, but Neiman Marcus lists it online and it's available from many counters.

All photos by me.

A 1978 release, Magie Noire occupies a similar place in my memories with the other beasts of that era, Opium and Charlie. I need to ask my mom, but I'm pretty sure several of her acquaintances wore it, including at least one of my teachers. And all of them overdid it and wore it at inappropriate times , thus ruining the black magic and making it into a cartoon version of itself.

All of the above means I didn't discover Magie Noire's real beauty and power until it was too late- while there's an EDT by the same name on every Lancome counter, it smells cheap, synthetic and completely devoid of magic, black or other. This is, of course, where one do two things: Turn to eBay and pray, which surprisingly worked for me, as I found a bottle of the parfum and didn't have to sell one of my cats to pay for it.

The notes (from Perfume Shrine) are: bergamot, blackcurrant, hyacinth, raspberry, honey, tuberose, narcissus, jasmine, incense, Bulgarian rose, patchouli, vetiver, castoreum, labdanum, musk and civet. This is quite an impressive list that can tell you this is not for the faint of heart. All those animalic notes (castoreum, musk and civet) create a strong foundation with an incredibly sensual touch. It doesn't smell dirty, though- no sweat or bodily functions- instead, this is a siren that tempts and calls for you to get closer and closer, to try and smell what it's really like to be there. The road to that point is quite irresistible. Out of all the floral notes listed what I get most are the hyacinth and narcissus, beautiful and dry, but in this case they are laced with an incredible honey note. This is probably my favorite of the scent- the way it changes and morphs seamlessly, like a sexy montage. My skin also amplifies the berry notes, and for once they don't feel silly. They are actually dark and while tempting and juicy, they play a part in the seduction without ever crossing the fruit cup line. It's not about being "yummy, it's about being Nigella Lawson.

I haven't seen oakmoss listed anywhere as part of Magie Noire, but at times I could swear it feels and wears as dangerously as a chypre. Whatever used to be in there, it's a true beauty, and I'd suggest you raid the dresser of any aunt who might have a pre-reormulated bottle to get a taste of it.

Magie Noire ads from 1982 and 1984: paperpursuits.com and couleurparfum.com

As promised yesterday, here's the Pop 'n Green Color Design eye shadow quad, which is one of two Lancome limited edition palettes for Spring 2010. It's definitely one of the more interesting items we've seen this season. No traditional pinks or other Easter colors, which is perfectly fine with me. I consider each color in the set a true winner and can think of multiple ways to combine them, though I prefer to pair them with neutrals and not wear them together, since this quad is very cool toned and my skin is somewhere in the middle.

The texture is among the best I've seen from Lancome. Their eye shadows can be a hit or miss, but in this case the quality is very good, except maybe Green Spark which is very beautiful but not as smooth as I would have liked. The color payoff is excellent, though, and there's no crumbling or shimmer fallout. The lasting power and color integrity are good when used over a strong primer (6-8 hours with Urban Decay, 10-12 hours with Kanebo Sensai).

Bottom line: Probably the biggest surprise of the season.

Lancome Color Design Pop 'n Green eye shadow quad ($42) is available from every semi decent department store as well as online. I bought mine from lancome.com that currently lists it as out of stock.

All photos by me.

All things considered, it's actually surprising I didn't have a teal eyeliner in my stash until this season. I had teal eye shadows in every texture and finish, but no real liner. So when Lancome came out with their Spring 2010 Collection that included the Ink Artliner in Teal Delight I had to have it.

Ink Artliner is a relatively new format for Lancome (launched last season with Indigo Charm), as the company didn't have a gel eyeliner until now. Teal Delight is actually softer than Indigo Charm and you can actually see it in the swatch photo. I really like this texture and find that it works with most eyeliner brushes I have. I prefer to use it with wider ones (like Lancome's or the classic Bobbi Brown) that are a bit stiff, but that might just be me and my unsteady hand.

When I opened the pot I was surprised that the color looked dark and not very teal. On skin, however, it has a lot more green and looks exactly right. I've tested this liner as part of several makeup looks. It's a personal preference, of course, but I'd rather not pair it with other colors from the same family (like the Lancome Pop n Green quad I'll talk about tomorrow) because it's just too much. Muted neutrals look better on me when I'm wearing a bright liner, but as always, your mileage may vary.

Lancome Ink artliner ($23.50) is available from just about any department store and online. I bought it from lancome.com.

Photos by me.

Some of the most interesting eye shadow palettes are the ones featuring one stunning bright color among a bunch of perfect neutrals that enhance it. Last season we've seen some gorgeous greens and rich blue colors and they are still going strong. Many spring and summer collections (Summer? What summer? My back yard still has about 10" of snow on the ground) this year offer a lighter version- some version of baby blue, pale aqua or a porcelain blue. Originally I was interested in one of the new Giorgio Armani Nude Contrasts plaettes, but after testing at Saks (and getting annoyed by the SA) I wasn't too impressed- it was too light and the effect on my skin was a bit chalky. It'd be much better on a redhead.


But I was still interested to find that perfect shimmery almost-blue color, so when I received a Lancome GWP compact (which means I have several new Lancome items to talk about this week) and found Luring as one of the eye shadows there I was thrilled. This was exactly what I wanted.

Luring, despite the color swatch on Lancome's website, is more blue than gray. It has a pearl-like sheen that catches the light very nicely and looks very pretty against olive skin and brown eyes. The way I apply it is almost like an eyeliner- a medium width swipe on the lid, just above the lashes (I use a dark eyeliner and draw a very thin line). I don't extend the blue color- not towards the brow bone and not to the outer corner- to avoid a retro look (see Jean Shrimpton in the 1960-something photo above). I just want a pop of color that has this promise of warmer days to come.

Texture-wise, Color Design is not the softest or most luxurious thing ever. You can see it even in the photo I took. Luring is of decent quality, it stays on over a primer from morning to night and looks pretty. It's just not as rich and silky as I'd have liked. Then again what do they say about horses, teeth and gifts?

Bottom line: It satisfied a craving. What more can I ask?

Lancome Color Design single eye shadows ($17) are available from every department store under the sun ans lancome.com.

Product pictures by me, vintage photo of Jean Shrimpton from myvintagevogue.com.

And just for fun, here's Cary Brothers on stage singing Blue Eyes during the Hotel Cafe world tour in 2005. I saw him and the others that year at Maxwell's in Hoboken and it was a fabulous show. Joshua Radin was pretty anonymous (and very cute) back then and Tom McRae was his usual drunken but talented self. I wish they'd come back.

If you check the Basenotes directory for the original 1952 Tresor entry you will find some reviews that clearly talk about the 1990 Sophia Grojsman composition. I don't know if it's funny or sad how some of the reviewers see a 1990 perfume as "vintage", but considering that the Trésor you currently see at your local Lancome counter doesn't smell exactly like the bottles my little sister plowed through in the early 90s, maybe they are somewhat justified in this approach.

The fact is that the original version of Trésor dating from the 1950s has been lost and forgotten long before Lancome commissioned Ms. Grosjman to create the new rose-apricot monstrosity. I was lucky to find a half full bottle of the old juice and reckless enough to buy it unsniffed, despite my utter dislike of the new one. That's my version of living dangerously. Or maybe not- I have yet to come across a fine fragrance from the fifties I don't like (and, yes, back then Lancome used to produce truly fine fragrances).

I was right. Despite the faded and musty top notes and a general rosiness, vintage Trésor is a beautiful, elegant perfume. It's as femme as it gets in that familiar 1950s way that is never too sweet and comes complete with uncomfortable lingerie and a worn black leather purse that has a metallic clasp and frame. You can actually smell that purse in the leathery drydown. It's a bit animalic, but not too much as to scare people or even hint that the girdled and gartered wearer is anything but a lady.

The shape of my bottle hints that it dates from the 1960s. It doesn't mention concentration, but the scent doesn't hold for more than 2-3 hours, so I suspect it's an EDT or an EDC. I don't mind reapplying, because it's such a pleasure to wear it once I get to the perfume's core. I could probably be more heavy handed with it- it's quite rare, but these treasures should be fully enjoyed as long as they are around.

Vintage Lancome ads: okadi.com and paperpursuits.com.

It's the time of the year the skin on my body and I become estranged and try to crawl out of each other. It ain't pretty. I fight the good fight. I take my vitamins, slather, grease, beg and plead, and for the most part manage to avoid turning into a creepy crawler, but it takes work and products, and come January and February I turn to the big guns. I've already tried some of the most amazing products on the market, those priced in the three digit range and they really work (they'd better). I was considering buying a jar or two when I decided to give Lancome a chance and ordered their Nutrix Royal Body Cream. I can't help it- I hear something contains royal jelly and I must try it. Not sure where this fixation came from.

My one and only issue with Lancome body products has always been the scent. They smell synthetic and fruity, and Nutrix Royal Body Cream isn't different in that regard, though by the time I get dressed it's mostly gone. The important part, though, is performance. Nutrix Royal delivers like a cream that costs three times as much and continuous use has lingering effect. I haven't touched any other body cream in more than three weeks and haven't seen that ugly dry earth pattern on my legs since then.

Bottom line: I don't know if its the royal jelly, but this cream is made of awesome.

Lancôme Nutrix Royal Body Cream ($34) is available from Lancome counters everywhere and the company's website. I ordered it online.

Photo: images.com

I have been drooling over this collection since before the holidays so I am thrilled that it will finally be in the stores soon - how I will ever choose what to buy is another dilemma altogether!
Butterflies Fever Blush - 01 Glowy Ballerine - $48 - Limited Edition
Ombre Absolue Minérale Eye Shadow Palette - A60 Ultra-Lavande Cold Harmony or A70 Ultra-Lavande Warm Harmony - $54 - Limited Edition
Le French Touch Absolu - 308 Lily Rose, 310 Daisy Rose or 312 Berry Rose - $40 - Limited Edition
Color Fever Gloss Natural Origin - 383 Beige Ballerine or 385 Lavande Ballerine - $31 - Limited Edition
Le Vernis - 359 Lavande or 004 Disco Silver - $16 - Limited Edition
Ombre Magnétique - 01D Disco Gold - $47 - Limited Edition
Ink Artliner - 05 Ultra-Lavande - $38 - Limited Edition
Crayon Khol Naturel - 01 Ballerina Pink or 03 Ultra-Lavande - $28 - Limited Edition

Available February in Department Stores, (some items at) Select Pharmacies and at www.lancome.ca

So help me out here ladies, out of all of this wonderfulness - what do I really NEED?!