skin care

Does skincare really have to be complicated to be effective?  According to Dr. Lancer, a renowned Beverly Hills dermatologist to the stars, the answer to that is a resounding NO! It's for this reason that he developed a simple 3 step daily program with products that promise to bring medical grade improvements in fine lines, texture, discolouration and pore size in roughly a week.  Here is what the three step products are:

STEP 1: Polish - Natural Sea Minerals - 60g - $50 - collagen stimulating exfoliator enhanced with magnesium oxide crystals - the directions tell you to use daily or every other day but I found the scrub quite abrasive so that seems like too much to me, I wouldn't use it more then 1 or 2 times a week!  It did do a nice job and the scrub didn't have any sharp pieces, it was scrubby, but smooth scrubby!

STEP 2: Cleanse - Extremely Pure and Detoxifying - 118ml - $50 -this was my favourite product out of the three - it did an excellent job of cleansing my skin without stripping it and I love the botanical smell!  It did a great job of removing makeup (other then eye makeup) so it was suitable for both day and night.

STEP 3: Repair - AM/PM Nourishment - 60g - $100 - full of all kinds of anti-wrinkle and skin firming peptides as well as algae and green tea extracts, Vitamin A & E which combined are meant to increase skin firmness, diminish the appearance of lines and wrinkles and nourish skin.  This is quite a rich skin which can be used day and night but because I was using it during warm weather, I found it too heavy for day and just used it at night - during the winter though I think this would be a great day cream too.

If you are looking to pare down your skincare routine, this isn't a bad choice - I used the products for 2 months and I did notice that the texture of my skin was very nice and smooth, my fine lines were also improved (as they will be when you use any good quality cream) but I didn't notice any change to my pore size - to be fair, I'm not pore obsessed and don't find them particularly large to begin with!  Other then the scrub, I would totally recommend these products for daily use!

If you aren't looking to streamline your routine but would still like to try the LANCERx line, don't worry, there are lots of other products available to compliment these ones!  You can check out: www.lancerdermatology.com to view the whole line or purchase these products.

Is there anything better then a day of pampering?  I can't think of anything so last Saturday I spent the day in Yorkville going from salon to spa, it's a rough life but someone has to do it!

First stop was the Mark Anthony Salon at 38 Avenue Road - it looks exactly the way I would imagine a trendy Yorkville salon should look: white and polished with glass and chic people everywhere!

I filled out a form, was offered a drink, a complimentary manicure and then it was off to meet the person who would have my life (okay fine, hair) in his hands...

The very charming Byron was my stylist - he sat me down to have a look at my hair and chat about what I was looking for and then he sent me off with Silva to get washed - and all I can say is OMG!  There has only ever been one other place where I have had such a great shampoo (a little Asian place in Markham where nobody spoke English and I finally had to stop going to because we didn't understand a single word the other one was saying and I kept ending up with weird haircuts because of it, but damn, I miss those shampoos!) Silva used the perfect amount of pressure, gave the most wonderful scalp massage and didn't get any part of my body wet that wasn't supposed to be!  It was also quite luxurious because while I was being washed, Mizuki the manicurist was doing my nails, and continued to work on them during the cut - that's what I imagine it's like to be rich, you just laze around while teams of people work on you!

So here's my issue with hairdressers, and I've had this problem constantly since moving to Toronto - you go, they ask you what you want and 75% of the time you leave with something entirely different then what you asked for.  I think the problem is they either don't listen, don't understand, can't do what you want or are drunk.  Options 1 and 2 are most likely but I won't discount option 4 in a couple of instances...  For this reason my favourite part of my cut with Byron was he really listened - I told him that I needed a cut that was low maintenance and didn't require any styling to look okay and that's exactly what I got - it's almost disappointing how well he listened because he didn't even style it fancy like they usually do at the salon, you know the style you can never replicate yourself at home?  I both hate and love that they do that!  The other great thing is that the styling product that he used was the same as the Marc Anthony products that you can buy at the drugstore, which is nice because then no one is hitting you up to buy fancy products when you are done! 

If you are shopping for a new hairdresser, I would totally recommend Byron, not only is he a good stylist, he's cute, he's straight and he flirts (not that there is anything wrong with gay hairdressers but flirting with them is like giving a blind man a subscription to Playboy - it's a nice thought but it's pointless).

Hair cuts for women start at $65 or $45 for men, colour starts at $70 and I was very interested to notice that they offer INOA for a $10 service charge.  They also offer extensions, highlights, perms, a blow dry club where you can purchase a package of blow outs for a reduced price, formal up-dos as well as bridal services.  You can get the full price list and info at www.markanthony.com  and if you're more of an uptown girl, Mark Anthony has another location at 1918 Avenue Road - 416-789-1212.

You can contact the downtown salon at 416-413-1521.

Then it was across the street to 41 Avenue Road to be pampered at Pure + Simple which is totally serene and relaxing inside and of course it smells amazing, just the way a spa should!

I was there to have the deluxe sea salt microdermabrasion.  I have never had it before but knew it was good for refining your skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines, pores, scars and pigmentation. My esthetician was Tahlia and she assured me it wouldn't hurt - which it didn't, it's an unusual sensation, a combination of light suction and a cat licking your face! Along with the micro, there is also a more traditional facial with cleansing, steaming, extractions, lotions, potions and my favourite part - facial massage!  Tahlia was great, even the extractions didn't hurt and most importantly, she did them by hand, not with something metal (which you should never let them do during a facial - fingers only)!  By the end I felt thoroughly cleansed, refreshed and relaxed.  And here's the really great part - my skin looked terrible the day I went, I was all broken out on my chin and around my mouth - by the next day I had started to clear up and within 4 days, my skin was beautifully clear.  Tahlia did warn me that I might see some flakiness right afterwards, which I did, and now that it's a week later, my skin really does look great - I will most certainly be going to have another treatment.  Some places recommend you have a series of treatments a couple of weeks apart but Tahlia recommended it be done once a month.


Once you are done your treatment, you can check out their Aladdin's cave (room) of products - Pure + Simple has their own line (made right here in Toronto) and an extensive line it is!  Every product for every skin type/issue you could think of, it probably has!  They also carry lots of other lines including: Dr. Hauschka, Jurlique, Jane Iredale Mineral MakeUp and Kiss Me.  Better yet, they will make you a sample of anything you want to take home and try!  Right now I am totally in love with the Pure + Simple Collagen + elastin Serum, it goes on silky smooth and makes my skin feel that way too!

As well as the microdermabrasion, Pure + Simple also offers facials, Intense Pulse Light Photo Facials, LED Light Treatments, LumiLift Facials, Skin Renewing Peels, Intense Pulse Light Hair Removal and waxing.

They also have 3 other locations if you aren't a downtown girl:  2375 Yonge Street - 416-481-2081; 725 King Street W - 416-366-8558 or 348 Lakeshore Rd. E, Oakville - 905-844-4900.  You can contact the 41 Avenue Road location at 416-924-6555 and if you want more info and pricing check out the website at www.pureandsimple.ca.

NeoStrata All-in-One Night Serum - 30ml - $84 - For the 50+ crowd, NeoStrata has new addition to their Intense line for mature women with multiple advanced aging concerns, including wrinkles, crepiness, pore size and elasticity.  It contains the proven pentapeptide Matrixyl - which fights the appearance of wrinkles, helping to reverse the signs of aging, age-defying retinol - a form of vitamin A naturally found in the body that fights the appearance of wrinkles and skin crepiness, enhances skin tone and decreases pore size - in the highest concentration available at retail and Longevicell - obtained from myrtle, it's a cell regenerator and guardian of tissue longevity that inhibits a process called glycation.  Glycation occurs when ingested sugars trigger a chain reaction and bid collagen fibres together, which causes tissues to stiffen, leading to the formation of wrinkles.  Even better,until the end of Friday you can also get a free gift of a Moisture Infusion Cream (worth $27) with purchase of the serum at Shoppers.

I'm not in the appropriate age group to really test this serum out but I did try it to get an idea of the feel.  I like the texture of the serum, it really would be fine for any skin type although I suspect dry skin would probably want to add a little moisturizer on top of it.  I also found it a bit stingy, which I'm told is normal and you might need to start off using it every other night to build up your tolerance as it does contain very potent ingredients.  So while I can't tell you about personal results, I did find you a pic of the test results, which are quite impressive!


Quo Skin Care - already love Quo cosmetics?  Seems that Quo wants more of your love and have just launched a line of skin care products - here's what they have:
Gentle Gel  Cleanser - 95ml - $15 - gently cleanses skin, without irritation and can be used both morning and night.
Facial Polish - 175ml - $15 - cleans pores with mild exfoliating beads leaving your skin feeling both polished and fresh.
Brightening Serum - 50ml - $20 - evens and brightens skin's overall complexion.
Daily Moisturizing Lotion - 95ml - $20 - easily absorbs, leaving skin moisturized all day long without signs of dryness.
Intense Eye Cream - 14.5ml - $18 - soothes and moisturizes the eye area while decreasing puffiness and signs of redness.
Hydrating Night Cream - 50ml - $20 - light formula replenishes skin's moisture without clogging pores.
Refreshing Facial Mist - 145ml - $15 - soothes and refreshing skin, best used after cleansing.

I haven't actually tried anything yet, just played with the testers - I really like the texture of the daily moisturizing lotion and I like all the pump bottles.  The shiny silver is pretty but it's not very practical since it will get covered in lotion and fingerprints - they were smart though and put a clear strip on the side of each bottle so you could see how much product is left!  Would love to hear opinions on the line when someone tries it!
Peace Love & Juicy Couture - 50ml EDP - $76, 100ml EDP - $99, Body Lotion - 250ml - $56, Body Creme - 200ml - $64 - The notes include Meyer lemon blossom, wild hyacinth, sweet apple, black currant, sambac jasmine, star magnolia, Malibu poppy, honeysuckle, linden blossom, orris, patchouli and musk.  I actually don't mind the scent, if find it a lot greener then the usual JC offering - and the bottle is so fun!

Nicole by OPI matte - $10.99 - No Limits - navy, Positive Energy - silver, Razzle Dazzler - black, Stolen Kisses - pinkish red, Virtuous Violet - purple, Respect the World - blue, Yellow, It's Me - yellow - If they didn't say matte on them I wouldn't have believed they were - they all look so sparkly in the bottles!

Women have been known to put some pretty strange stuff on their skin, but finally something that makes sense to me - Gold!
Dr. Hauschka Spa in Montreal is now offering a Holistic 24 Karat Gold Facial - for $270 you get a sumptuous two hour treatment where the lymphatic flow is stimulated to help eliminate toxins and make the skin receptive to the benefits of the gold.  The sheets are then applied as a mask to thoroughly cleansed skin.  Using light touches, they are then gently pressed into the skin so the effects can penetrate deeply.



I'm sure you are wondering how the heck gold could be good for your skin and if this is some kind of beauty scam, but there is actually science behind the use of gold:  much as gold is used as a conductor in electronics, gold exerts an influence on electrons present in the cells.  It rapidly warms the skin to provide a comforting sensation while helping increase oxygenation, balancing the acidity of the body tissue fluids and freeing the skin of impurities.  The heat energy also helps release negative ions and rid skin cells of free radicals.  As a result, wrinkles are diminished, blemishes banished, and age spots fade away.  The skin becomes genuinely luminous, and women report a feeling of complete inner and outer radiance.

The results last approximately 3 weeks.  A single treatment is ideal any time for an added glow, especially before a big event but for optimal results a series of six monthly treatments is recommended.

And if you have this done in February, you can look just like an Oscar!

You can find the Dr. Hauschka Spa at 1444 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, Montreal, QC - 514-286-1444.

The one problem with Youngblood's Minerals In The Mist sprays is that they come in 4 oz bottles, which means not TSA approved, so one can't pack them in the infamous plastic bag you take with you on the plane. A refreshing spritz of this stuff helps me wake up, locks in the serum and moisturizer I just applied and gives a natural dewiness to the makeup. I would have loved to bring it with me for a post-flight fix, but it's not meant to be.

It's interesting to note that some of the essential oils blended for Youngblood's Grapefruit, Lime, and Rosemary Restore Mist , mostly citrus oil, would give an IFRA bureaucrat a seizure. Apparently it's OK to spray it directly in the face but not to wear as perfume. Ha. In any case, while this mist doesn't feel as exquisitely nourishing as Kanebo Sensai's spray mist, for only $22 this is a pleasant alternative.

Bottom Line: I'd happily buy a travel size if one was offered.

Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics- Minerals In The Mist- Restore($22) was sent for my consideration by the company. It's available from Henri Bendel in NYC and ybskin.com. 

I probably got the tube of Pur~Lisse Pur~Lip Comfort in a Beautyfix box and put it aside for a time of need. Recently that time arrived- a day of not drinking enough water combined with extra unpleasant weather resulted in dry and cracked lips. The perfect setting for testing a new lip product.

The Good: It worked very well. The rich cream smoothed and healed my lips in no time. Using it for a couple of days left me with soft and healthy looking lips.

The Bad: All the oils and emollients don't make a good base for lipsticks.  Pur~Lip made every lip color I tried slide and migrate. Not a good look.

The Questionable: Pur~Lip's ingredient list is full of good-for-you ingredients. This Pur~Lisse product is full of natural butters and oils, vitamins and nutrients. It's the fragrant ingredients that make me raise an eyebrow. Both orange peel oil and linalool have been targeted by IFRA as possible skin allergens and are supposed to be restricted when used in perfume. I'd think that if that's the case, maybe skin care products that go directly on one's lips should be just a little more discriminating. 

Pur~Lisse Pur~Lip Comfort ($22) is available from purlisse.com. I received mine in a press kit from Beautyfix.

My favorite part about modern skin care is its effectiveness. Good products deliver visible results within weeks or even days, and while they won't give you a face lift or a nose job, they make one's skin look as good as possible without having to use methods like the one you see above. Other than sun protection (and correcting past sun damage), my main focus is keeping my skin looking alive. It's all quite Harry Potter-like: Potions, Defence Against The Dark Arts and a touch of Herbology, so I like that Kanebo Sensai's nearly magical serum is called an "Essence".

Cellular Performance Hydrachange Essence looks like a runny lotion but you can tell as soon as you apply it that there's some heavy duty concentrated moisturizing there. The "magic" is in the contrast between the lightness of the texture (and the absolute lack of any grease) and the instant plumping and suppleness it gives the face. And these results don't vanish. My skin remains happy for long hours, and I can also tell now, after over a month of daily use, that I've achieved a new and better balance.

Granted, the real test of a superpower hydrating product is during the winter, when freezing temperatures and overheated spaces conspire to age us all, but from what I'm seeing now I have high hopes for the Sensai Hydrachange Essence (and also for the cream from this series which I will start testing as soon as the weather changes). As for integrating this product into my existing routine, I use it every morning after moisturizing and once again in the afternoon or evening once I've taken off my makeup. I still use the brightening Cle de Peau serum right before bed and the results are great, so there's no conflict between the two products.

Bottom Line: Fabulous.

Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Hydrachange Essence ($150, 1.35oz) is available at  Bergdorf Goodman and also online from neimanmarcus.com. A press sample was provided by the company's PR team.

Image: glamourdaze.blogspot.com

Complaining about the weather gets old and boring quickly, especially since we all know I'm going to whine twice as much come winter. But this summer has been brutal, making me more obsessed than ever about protecting my skin and keeping it in top shape with all the moisture and nutrients I can get.

It can be a bit odd how after a day of running around in soup-like humidity once I'm back in the cool and airconditioned house all of a sudden my skin looks and feels deflated. This is where this liquid spray, Hydrachange Mist from Sensai by Kanebo makes a difference.

The Hydrachange Mist looks like water but feels thicker, like a very runny serum. It's actually a mix of water with hyaluronic acid that allows skin to hold unto the moisture and retain it. I've heard some people like to keep the spray bottle of the Mist in the fridge and use it to feel refreshed. Personally, I don't like spraying my face with anything too cold, so I keep it in room temperature. I find that it perks me up instantly and my skin feels very supple after every use. It can be used under makeup or over it and I think it helps makeup stay on and look freshly applied longer. Is this much difference than spraying your face with mineral water at a fraction of the cost? It's hard to say, but I do feel a difference in my skin, so the hyaluronic acid must be doing its job.

Bottom Line: At $75 for 100ml, this is a real indulgence, but after two weeks of temperature in the 100s one starts to appreciate anything that works.

Bottom Line 2: I wish they'd make a travel size bottle, small enough to take on a plane.It would have been the best fix for flight face.

Kanebo Sensai Hydrachange Mist ($75) is available from Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus (the latter is online only). A press sample was supplied by the company's PR team.

Image: Veruschka by Franco Rubartelli, Vogue US June 1968

The last month or so the weather here has been on the range between horrible to atrocious. Hiding in air conditioned spaces is nice, but as the husband and I wanted to make the most of our weekends, go places and visit interesting antique centers (a note to the wise: south-central Jersey leaves a lot to be desired) it meant quite a bit of time in the car and walking around. I've been really really good, using sunscreen, wearing a wide brimmed hat and covering myself with a scarf for some extra protection, so other than the top of my feet which I systematically forget to slater with sun blocks, I've kept my natural pale ash color.

 But it doesn't mean that the heat and sun didn't affect my skin. I could tell that no matter how much water I drink, my skin lost  moisture and felt sensitive. I also missed a spot when applying sunscreen to my hands and got a little sunburn on my right hand just below the pinky finger. My regular arsenal of moisturizers helped a little, but not enough to make me feel restored, which was why I turned to the heavy duty product: Kanebo Sensai Silky Bronze Bronze Soothing After Sun Mask.

Designed for use after serious sun exposure, the 10 minute mask cools the skin and reduces inflammation. It's supposed to minimize peeling and sustain an even tan, but that's obviously not my thing. What I can tell you is how quickly the mask restores skin suppleness and moisture level. The mask contains some interesting good-for-you ingredients like hyaluronate collagen booster, apricot essence and silk complex in a base solution of mentholated water (that's the instant cooling effect). I used it nightly after returning home and once before going out again in the evening, and could see the results especially after a couple of days- my skin looked rested and healthy with no sign of heat exhaustion.

This Sensai product is an actual mask- a three-layer paper product that is saturated with the liquid solution. You take out the sheet from the individual packet, unfold it and apply carefully smooth it all over the face. It feels a little weird the first time, especially since you need to position it correctly over the eyes, nose and mouth. There are flaps for the eyes which you can use to cover the lids and take a ten minute catnap or lift them, as desired. I cut one of the flaps and used it on my hand and it worked great. Two days later there was no sign of sunburn.

A full pack of the Silky Bronze Bronze Soothing After Sun Mask contains 8 sheets. You're supposed to use them for five consecutive days during your vacation/sun exposure time and then once a week for three more weeks. I've been just using them as needed, making sure not to do that when expecting the UPS guy to ring the doorbell, to avoid an Eyes Without A Face moment (the French horror film, not Billy Idol's song). I find it highly effective and a summer essential.

Kanebo Sensai Silky Bronze Bronze Soothing After Sun Mask ($100 per pack) is available from Bergdorf Goodman. It doesn't currently appear on their website so you'll need to give them a call if you're interested and unable to get there in person. A press sample of the mask was provided by the company for my consideration.

I have quite a few new skin care secrets and discoveries to share over the next couple of weeks. I'm seriously giddy about the effectiveness and overall fabulousness of the new products top companies have been releasing. Skin care has come a long way since the days of cold cream, and we're the ones who benefit from it.

Many of you have been following my quest to get rid of some unfortunate sun damage that took up residence on my face in the form of freckles, dark spots or whatever you want to call them. Cle de Peau labels it "Age Spot", and I don't really mind as long as their serum actually works. And it does. I've mentioned before that I saw some change about 10 days after I first started using the serum. I wasn't entirely sure, but certain areas like the top of my cheekbones seemed a little lighter, more clear maybe, and a recent light scar (roughhousing with a cat is dangerous) has faded and disappeared almost overnight. But you shouldn't draw any conclusions until a minimum of 6 weeks using this kind of products.

So here I am, more than eight weeks later and I was right about what I saw in early May. But the biggest change doesn't even require spending hours gazing at myself. I have two annoying spots on my left cheeks. They've took up residence there about five years ago and I've been going after them with lotions and potions for several years now. The spots used to be a lot darker and more obscene, and in the beginning almost touched each other. Both faded quite a bit since then, the lower one has shrunk somewhat and the distance between them gradually grew. That has always been one of my indicators that the creams and serums were doing at least something. Now, the lower one is nothing but a dot and the bigger one while certainly present and noticeable, is much lighter and can be mostly covered by heavy duty concealers and foundations.

The overall feel of my skin is supple, soft and moisturizers seem to be absorbed very effectively. It's not that I've become Snow White or anything, but my skin is brighter and happier. So am I.

Bottom Line 1: Worth each and every one of the pretty pennies it costs.
Bottom Line 2: Wear your sunblock. Seriously.


Cle de Peau Beaute Anti Age Spot Serum ($155, 1.3 oz) is available from top department stores and select Shiseido standalone boutiques.

Images-
Snow White: teenangster.net
Bonne Bell ad with Cheryl Tiegs- Glamour magazine, July 1968: myvintagevogue.com

Josie Maran Argan Oil is a fabulous product.

The oil is labeled a face product but I actually bought it to use on my body and especially my legs as a pre-summer and mini skirts treatment. It worked great and I liked the oil well enough for the occasional use on my face.  The oil sinks quickly into the skin and doesn't leave a greasy coat. It softens rough patches and I'm pretty sure it helped a a scratch and a bruise heal more quickly than usual. After a week or so of use on my legs I noticed an improvement and no longer needed as much moisturizing. There are some magical anti-aging properties attributed to the oil from the argan nut. I don't believe in miracle potions, and face-wise I still prefer creams to oils, but this Josie Maran product is great and so far made a real difference in my body care routine.

However.

Pure argan oil is not just a cosmetics product. It's also a condiment and can be found in delis and upscale food stores. I bought a bottle at Fairway (our Whole Foods didn't have argan oil at the time) and we used it occasionally for salads (then forgot all about it and ended up tossing it out when deep-cleaning the kitchen cabinets before we moved). The oil had an orange color and a nutty-toasty aroma and taste. I should have used it on my legs instead of letting the precious oil languish on the shelf.  The thing is, the current price of a 250ml  (8.5oz) 100% organic argan oil bottle is about $43-$45. A 1.7 oz (50 ml) Josie Maran 100% organic argan oil costs $48.

See my problem?

Josie Maran Argan Oil is available from Sephora. It comes in a brown glass bottle with a dropper (quite convenient). The oil is actually colorless, which surprised me. I tasted a little and did not get any nutty scent or flavor. It makes it more appealing for cosmetic use, but I don't know why and how it differs from the bottles you find at the grocery store.

Photos:
Goats on an argan tree in Morocco from neatorama.com
Argan oil from gourmet.chefshop.com

Here's the problem with most sunscreens: they don't always play well with the other stuff we put on our faces. We all have a skin care routine. Serum this and anti-aging that. Then there's makeup, from face primer and up. And nobody wants white residue, a greasy face and foundation that melts and travels south. But sun damage is even less desirable, so we experiment. Last summer my solution was Peter Thomas Roth Instant Mineral SPF 30, a sunblock in powder form you can apply over your makeup. This season Chantecaille is offering a similar product with a higher SPF and hopefully a better mechanism than the PTR brush, but as much as I want to try it, Kanebo Sensai Silky Bronze Sun Protective Cream For The Face SPF 30 is looking like an even better option.

The best thing about this Sensai sunscreen is the skin care/anti-aging aspect. It can actually replace whatever else you apply over your basic moisturizer while providing sun protection. It looks and feels like any good face cream, goes on sheer and leaves no goop or white residue behind. The Silky Bronze series is formulated with a bunch of good-for-you ingredients from Vitamin B to apricot essence complex and is chock full of hyaluronate/collagen booster (the stuff that makes skin retain moisture and firmness). I tend to take big promises with a (yet unbottoxed) raised eyebrow and a grain of salt. Still, there is no doubt that my skin likes Silky Bronze and responds well to having it daily under my foundation or tinted moisturizer. The cream holds nicely to makeup and does the sun protection work while not messing with everything else.

Bottom Line: Happy face.

Kanebo Sensai Silky Bronze Sun Protective Cream For The Face SPF 30 ($100, 1.7 oz) is available at kanebo.com, neimanmarcus.com (though not in stores) and Bergdorf Goodman. I received a press sample from the comapny's PR team.

Image: Sunlight from digitalart.org

Bliss Triple Oxygen Instant Energizing Mask might be a gimmick, but it's also a fun product that perks up the face at least short term. I like using it after a long hot day or before getting ready for a night out.

The way it works, you massage a generous amount of the mask (you want a full even coat all over your face) and give it five minutes- it starts foaming, frothing and tingling within a few seconds, which is an interesting sensation and a good entertainment if you have a juvenile kitten hanging around. My Giselle thinks Bliss has created this mask especially for her amusement (I'd recommend  keeping fuzzy paws out of your eye area). Rinse or wipe off after 5 minutes and follow up with a mild toner, otherwise there's an invisible residue that keeps your moisturizer from absorbing as quickly as it should.

As I said, this is a good pick-me-up treatment after a skin-stressing day. I don't see any long term results or even any immediate brightening, but it does have a smoothing effect right after use. And it simply feels good. The mask is scented (a pleasant mild citrus fragrance) and contains SLS, so take that into account if you're the sensitive type.

Bottom Line: Nice to have.

Bliss Triple Oxygen Instant Energizing Mask ($52, 3.4oz) is available from Sephora and blissworld.com.

Photo: shutterstock.com

In which I get creative.

I have a complicated relationship with Lush. There are a handful of products I love enough to tolerate their  scent, go through them quickly and buy them over and over. The rest-  I could easily live without, especially since I find the smell of their stores mighty unpleasant. I was  pursuing Lush website as I needed to restock a couple of summer essentials (Dream Cream and Silky Underwear powder) and got curious about their solid serum bars. Not that I need another serum or that I had any intention to put this stuff on my face, but I was thinking it might be a very interesting hand product.

Which it is.

Full Of Grace (I love the name) is a smallish bar (about third the size of their body massage/lotion ones) that fits easily in your palm and melts as you touch it. It can get messy, but all you need is a quick rub between your hands to spread the product and coat your skin from cuticles to wrists. The serum feels very rich but sinks in immediately without any greasy residue. It softens the skin right away, including the rougher spots (mine are from typing). The back of my hands which I treat religiously with creams and lotions get a bit waxy for a while, but very soft. It's a nice feeling, overall.

The scent is that typical lush essential oil mess with a side of cheap soap, but it's not too strong or too bad and  I'm willing to deal with it because of the fabulous performance. I wouldn't want it on my face, though. I ordered this serum  weeks ago when the weather was cooler and there was already some minor melting in the package. This is not something you can safely order during the hot months, so a trip to the smelly Lush store is recommended if you want to check it out.

Bottom line: Scent aside, even better than I expected.

Lush Full Of Grace Serum ($13.95, 0.7oz) is available from Lush stores and online (see my warning above).

Photo of my Gracie, just because.

1. Here's what Miller Harris PR (one of the most straightforward, competent and helpful I've come across in a very long time) had to say about L'Air de Rien:

As for L’Air de Rien, this is still going strong! We launched Un Petit Rien as the fresher, ligher alternative to the original, which is not being reformulated nor phased out. Both fragrances will co-exist (Un Petit Rien being L’Air de Rien’s softer, younger sister perhaps) and we also have a candle and body cream in the original scent.

2. It's only been eight days since I started testing Cle de Peau Anti Age Spots serum (couldn't they find a better name?), but I already see something happening there. I'm not fully brightened just yet, but there's a change and some shifting in the discolored areas. It's too early to tell much, but I have a good feeling.

3. Why is there a cheeseburger on the cover of Martha Stewart Living? Not a good thing, seriously.

4. I can't wait for Lost to be over. The show has jumped the shark around the time they opened the hutch, yet I found it impossible to stop watching. The sooner they're gone the better. Yes, Sawyer too.

Photo by Abe Schrader, 1960, from myvintagevogue.com

Shiseido is one of my go-to skin care brands and one I often recommend when asked for advice. I like their eye  creams and the White Lucent range and always count on them for performance. That's why I find the Gentle Cleansing Cream so odd. They promise a lot- a cleanser that works with or without water to remove makeup and impurities. Only it doesn't.

Maybe my primers have superpowers, but if other cleansers and wipes can take care of a full face of makeup, Shiseido's Gentle Cream should be able to do it, too. Yet, no matter if I use it wet or dry, about half the makeup (foundation, blush, powder) just smudges and smears, so I must follow up with a better cleanser rendering the Shiseido utterly pointless. I've tested it with three sample tubes from different sources (including one from the Salon du Palais royal Shiseido in Paris), always with the same results. It might be a nice product for morning cleansing, when you don't have any makeup on (I hope), but even I'm not so high maintenance to require a morning and an evening cleanser.

Bottom line: Not for me.

Shiseido The Skincare Gentle Cleansing Cream ($30, 4.3oz) is available from most department stores. Nordstrom is quite generous with samples.

Image: vintage Pond ad from paperpursuits.com

Every time I blog about my skin brightening quest I get a bunch of cranky emails from people thinking I'm trying to pull off a Michael Jackson, and I find myself explaining at length that I'm really really not. Long time readers know I've been working on undoing the consequences of past sins. My skin tans quickly. Fifteen minutes outside on a sunny day are enough to give me a "just got back from vacation" look. I have to wear a lot of sunblock on my hands even for a short drive to the store. It's not a bad problem to have, since I rarely burn. But let's face the facts: a tan, even a glowy bronzed one, is actually skin damage. And that's something to avoid and correct. Hence creams, serums and anything else that targets sun spots (I have four. Used to be five) and brightens the complexion.

After a couple of years of successfully treating my skin, getting back to my natural skin tone, lightening the sun spots on my cheeks (and completely eradicating the smallest one) I've reached a plateau. I'm paler than I've ever been, but the remaining spots don't seem to be going anywhere. I've heard and read good things about DDF Fade Gel 4 and decided to give it a try.

DDF Fade Gel 4 is a targeted treatment, meaning you apply it where needed and not necessarily all over your face (and cleavage, though I did after I forgot to use a sunblock when wearing a deep v-neck top and spending an hour or so outside). I've gone through a full bottle now and can say the results vary by the type of sun damage. Despite promises, it did absolutely nothing for the existing spots. I've spent more time than I care to admit staring at them, but all the fading has been the result of previous treatment. However, when it comes to accidental tan, the gel worked quickly and efficiently. The tanning lines on my chest disappeared after three nights, and the extra color has mostly faded. That might be reason enough to keep a bottle around, but I'm looking for a better product.

Next on my list: Cle de Peau. Testing commences tonight.

DDF Fade Gel 4 ($56, 0.5oz) is available from Sephora. I ordered it online.

Image from Homemaker's Encyclopedia, 1954 via retrolife.typepad.com

It's been years since I stopped using Clinique skin care products. Like many of us, I used to swear by their 1-2-3 system, but then it stopped working, gave me an allergic reaction and I realized my skin was becoming too dry, despite supplementing the classic DDM lotion with the (then) newly released Moisture Surge gel. While I liked this formula well enough, it was left behind when I switched to a more intensive regimen.

I received a travel size jar of Moisture Surge at a recent GWP event and absentmindedly put it in the "miscellaneous skin care " drawer (I have a system. Don't give me this look). I started using it on days when I apply my makeup several hours after my regular morning skin care routine- I like a little extra TLC before applying my primer, but there's no need for anything too active. While Moisture Surge wasn't working for me as a skin treatment and doesn't do much (anything) in the way of restoring or firming, it's an excellent moisturizer that hydrates and plump the skin without any greasiness or shine. I give it a few minutes to sink in, put on my primer and continue as usual. I don't have a scientific proof, but it seems that this extra hydration is helping my makeup look fresh even longer than normal. It works just as well with silicone primers as it does with creams.

Bottom line: I might need to make this a permanent part of my makeup routine.

Clinique Moisture Surge Extended Skin Relief ($34, 1.7 oz) is available from department stores everywhere, Sephora and clinique.com. I got it as a GWP.

Photo: Water surge at Noccalula Falls in Gadsden, Alabama by G. Denardo, 2004