eye shadow

In a world of sleek metallic packaging there's something charmingly retro about the plastic floral (think Holly Hobbie) compact of Fresh Eye Shadow Trios. But the reason I picked this one, Lost World, was the colors that seemed to fill a small gap in my eye shadow collection. Obviously, I need to own every possible shade ever created.

Lost World holds Maya (a subtle beige shimmer), Torrente (a surprisingly pale sheer celadon) and Lost World (a super pigmented mossy brown). The texture is soft and the quality is a lot better than one owuld expect from the packaging. The shadows blend beautifully once you adjust to the quantity of each one you need to create the desired look. Lost World (the color) is great as a daytime liner when applied with a dense thin brush. I also used it with a fixative gel as a liquid liner and loved the result.

A primer is essential to keep the shadows in place from morning to night. Otherwise the soft and crumbly texture might not last on the lid, especially on humid days or oily skin.

Bottom Line: I really really like it. Corazon Del Mar (taupe ans slate blue!) is now calling my name.

Fresh Eye Shadow Trio ($32) is available from Sephora and Fresh boutiques.

All photos are mine

While the fall 2010 look from Giorgio Armani is all about cool tones, there's actually a Maestro eye shadow quad in traditional autumn colors. Number 3, Earth, is all about the color changes of fall, leaves and the light and shade moving and shifting between tree brunches. It's as pretty as it sounds. I took the photos outside in late afternoon light a couple of months ago and you can see how light affects these color. I've been wearing it all summer, but I think it's appropriate all year round.

I have several of Armani's Maestro quads and this one might be one of the best. The texture is as smooth as we've come to expect from the brand and the finish of these four is among the prettiest I've seen. As always, they apply and blend perfectly. I keep buying the Maestro quads despite my annoyance with their design. The narrow pans are among my least favorites, as I prefer using wide brushes. It's workable, but I hope for a redesign at some point.

The other issue, more specific to this quad is the color combination. They are all gorgeous, of course, but I'd be a tad happier if the gold would have been replaced with a golden beige or another more natural shade. This gold is a bit to yellow for me to wear under the brow, so I have to supplement the palette with a nude color from another set. It's not an issue when doing my makeup at home, but if I were considering packing the quad in a makeup bag for use on the go I'd have to add another item.

Bottom Line: Your mileage may vary.

Giorgio Armani Maestro Eye Shadow Quad #3 Earth ($59) is available at select department stores and online.

All photos are mine.

I'm always tempted by cream eye shadows. There's something about the texture, smooth finish and the promise of superb blending that get my money every time. Then there's reality where I find out that 4 out of five times all these good qualities come at the high price of creasing, smudging and melting. Primers help, though, and some brands are starting to get it right (Laura Mercier is a good example), so I'm optimistic.

This summer Buxom by Bare Escentuals released the gimmicky-named Stay There eye shadow. It has a cute canine theme, the eye shadows are named after dog breeds and a tie-in with Canine Companions for Independence, a non-profit organization that enhances the lives of people with disabilities by providing highly trained assistance dogs. All that and some gorgeous colors certainly added to the irresistibility factor. After a thorough look at the shades, I chose the predictable taupe: Mutt. Since these shadows are so shiny and shimmery, a classic neutral is a better fit for me.

The texture of this Buxom cream is wonderful. It's soft, airy and almost whipped. As a germaphobe I prefer to use makeup brushes, but I admit Stay There makes it tempting to dip your fingers in the pot. The cream applies easily, and blends as smoothly as I hoped. It's very pigmented and one can create pretty effects and a glamorous but sophisticated look. I prefer to keep it low on the lid and closer to the lash line so the iridescence doesn't take over the entire eye area and I don't look like a disco queen.

As promised, the mutt stayed in place with no creasing or migrating. However, after only a couple of hours it started fading, losing the pretty finish and a lot of the pigment. Within three hours it faded to only a hint of color on my eyelids. I got the same results no matter which primer I used, so that's a real disappointment.

Bottom Line: Pretty, but plan on touch ups every couple of hours .

Buxom Stay There Eye Shadow ($17) is a Sephora exclusive.

All photos are mine.

Josephine, the kitten in the photos, is not the only one enjoying Midnight Look, the new Givenchy Le Prisme Eyeshadow Quartet. I'm completely enamored with the sheer colors and the silky smooth application. Givenchy Le Prisme eye shadows have a way of having enough pigment to give a beautiful veil of colors without ever looking painted or harsh. Blending is quick and easy, so even a novice can get a sophisticated look with minimal effort. 

The swatches on my arm don't do justice to the color or texture. They're prettier and look far smoother (with no debris on skin, though there is some crumbling in the compact) on the lid. The colors in Midnight Look are cool toned and shimmery. They include a soft not-quite white pearl (1), light silver (2), gray (3) and midnight blue (4). They are fabulous for evening but I've worn 3 and 4 during the day (light application, of course, over a non-shimmery nude base) and liked the look.

Bottom Line: I'm already considering adding a Le Prisme Quartet in Khaki Egerie to my collection. You can see it in Karen's review here.

Givenchy Midnight Look Le Prisme Eyeshadow Quartet ($56) is a new addition to the permanent line. Exclusive to Sephora.

Photos, arm and kitten are all mine.

It's pretty safe to say that Rajasthan, the midnight blue/metallic beige eye shadow duo, has proven to be the most irresistible item in the (very strong) Nars fall 2010 collection. Most brands have come up this season with a deep dark blue, but this one is unique enough to justify a purchase even if one already has a couple of the others.

At first I didn't think I'd wear both colors from this set at the same time. The beige looks darker in the compact than it is on skin, and while it's still not exactly a highlighter it's soft and neutral enough to be worn on the lid when I'm using the blue shade in the outer corners and along the lash line. My photos don't do justice to the depth and richness of the blackened midnight blue. It's absolutely gorgeous and can work both as a daytime eyeliner or for a super dramatic evening look. The shimmer is grownup, the texture satin-like, and while it's not as buttery as Guerlain or Shiseido, I think I prefer these Nars shadows to most Armani equivalents.

As with all Nars eye shadows, I find a primer necessary to keep the integrity and finish of the look. Used over my favorite base by Kanebo Sensai, Rajasthan stays put from morning to night and looks almost as fresh throughout the day.

Nars Rajasthan Duo Eye Shadow Fall 2010 ($32) is available from narscosmetics.com.

All photos are mine.

As you can see in the pictures, I tore into the new Shiseido Strata BR 307 Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio as soon as I got it, before taking photos and swatching. It was so silky and easy to wear I just couldn't wait. The set has quickly become part of my regular rotation because it's such a basic and classic combination that goes everywhere and doesn't require any effort or too much thought- it's August, after all and I've been keeping some atrocious hours, not to mention my two year old niece is visiting. So elaborate makeup has been out of the question lately.

The simple sophistication of these Shiseido colors has been perfect. The Luminizing Satinn eye shadows have the smoothest possible texture. They blend like cream, so they are essentially mistake proof (important when you do your makeup at 4 AM). The pigments are rich, so even the lightest color in the trio shows up nicely and gives good highlighting. Strata (BR 307) is mostly in the neutral brown range, and while there are gold undertones, on my skin it's not too yellow- even the middle color. You can also see photos and swatches on a different skin color by Christine of Temptalia here. They look good on sunny summer days, but would also go well with fall wardrobes, making this trio very useful and an excellent choice for the season.

Bottom Line: a staple.

Shiseido Strata BR 307 Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio ($33) is available from most decent department stores as well as from Sephora.

All photos are mine.

The star of Armani's Night Viper collection for fall 2010 is this Maestro eye shadow quad. Like several other brands, the Giorgio Armani creative team chose a rich dark blue as the bait to catch our attention and tempt us with its subtle shimmer. What can I say? It works.

While this is no Guerlain, the much lighter weight of the compact and easier to digest price tag give Armani major points. The combination of of one stunning color and three accessible neutrals is very appealing. One can create several looks for day and evening, play and blend as desired. There's a little insert in the box with suggestions for four combinations. It's a great place to start, even if the one titles "smocky evening look" is most likely a misspelling.

 If you're familiar with these Maestro shadows you know how soft they are- any novice can blend them and enjoy working with these colors. As is the case with the other Maestro quads, they require a primer for best results (I didn't use one in the swatches) and a bit of brush maneuvering because the individual pans are very narrow. It's worth the hassle, though as the results are beautiful and the colors are so easy to wear.

Bottom Line: Poor Armani would have gotten a lot more attention if it weren't for Guerlain.

Giorgio Armani Fall 2010 Maestro Eye Shadow Quad ($59) is available from Saks, Nordstrom and Barneys and directly from giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com.

All photos are mine.

Ever since last year when Nars released the Soft Touch Shadow Pencil I wanted more colors in this range. The three original pencils became frequently used items in my rotation and I've come to rely on them when looking for a quick and reliable look. So the release of Palladium, a turquoise loaded with silver shimmer, as part of the fall 2010 collection was very welcome. Not that I get why this bright turquoise is a fall color or how exactly it works with the rest of the collection, but that's Nars for you. The secret for using most of their seasonal items is by combining them with neutrals from the permanent line.

Palladium is bright and fun. I started using it right away, since I love turquoise in summer. I wear it as an eye shadow on the lid blended well into a beige base or as a pop of color on the lash line. I also experimented with applying it into my bottom lashes and smudging it a little. The result was pretty and worked even better than I expected.

I've heard complaints about the Soft Touch pencils' staying power from people with oily skin, but since I don't have this issue the color stays put on me until I go after it with Bi-Facil. I've actually found that Palladium requires even more effort to remove, so I do a second cleansing with Almay wipes.

Bottom Line: Probably not an essential color, but lots of fun.
Bottom Line 2: Dear Francois, can we get a navy and a taupe next?

NARS Palladium Soft Touch Shadow Pencil for Fall 2010 ($24) is available from Sephora, many department stores and narscosmetics.com.

All photos are mine.